But yesterday I noticed that some of the new leaves are turning yellow.At first I didn't worry 'cause all the new leaves were doing fine and I had a new shoot of growth on one of the limbs, but now I'm worried that the new growth will fall off too and that the tree'll die.
It's planted in the sidewalk strip between the street and the sidewalk. It got a very good deep hole but I made sure the tree was not planted too deep. There was a mulch and manure mix added when I put it in. It's supported by insulated wires to two stout poles. I made sure I didn't overwater it, and I've been feeding it.
When I bought it the nursery man said to be sure I didn't feed it 'cause it had just been fed. When the leaves started falling off I thought maybe the manure in the additive and the feeding had burned it, but that should've stopped by now. The only other thing I can think of to do is to put a ground cover all around the base to keep the root ball from getting too hot--my wife's doing that this morning.
Can you please help me if you think of something else? It makes me heartsick--I love my trees and grapefruit is one of my favorite juice flavors. Plus it cost $60. I have a lemon, summer & winter orange in the front yard and they're all thriving perfectly. I really would appreciate any help.
Joseph A., San Jose, California
Joseph, you are obviously able to grow citrus as you have other trees that
are doing well. We'll have to try to figure out what is different about
your new grapefruit tree or its situation that is causing the extreme leaf
drop.
Of course your new tree is not yet established. Some transplant shock is to be expected. Also, dropping of some older leaves when the tree is blooming in spring is normal, but the problem seems more serious than that. You are right to be so concerned about the leaf drop. Plants feed themselves through the process called photosynthesis. Grapefruit trees do this using their leaves. If your tree has no leaves, it will be unable to feed itself.
Are you SURE that you are not over or underwatering the tree? Is the drainage adequate where the tree is planted? Citrus are very particular about that. Their roots will not tolerate standing water, nor will they tolerate drying out. Too much or too little water is one likely cause of serious leaf drop. If drainage is not adequate, you could try digging a deep hole near the root ball and filling it with gravel to function as a drain.
In your message, you said, "I've been feeding it. When I bought it the nursery man said to be sure I didn't feed it 'cause it had just been fed. When the leaves started falling off I thought maybe the manure in the additive and the feeding had burned it..." Joseph, why are you feeding your grapefruit tree knowing that it has already been fed?
Also, you should not have added the manure and mulch when the tree was planted--for a couple of reasons. The manure is essentially fertilizer, and you were told that the tree had already been fed. Newly planted citrus trees should not be fed at all until new growth is produced. Also, the soil of the planting hole should not be amended. If you do amend it, the tree's roots will not want to grow into the surrounding soil as they should. They will tend to stay within the confines of the amended soil in the planting hole. If your soil is primarily clay, the sides of the planting hole should be roughened. If left smooth, it's like planting your tree in a bathtub. Obviously, since the tree is already planted, you can't do anything about that now, but do stop feeding the tree until it recovers.
Extraordinarily high temperatures and low humidity can also cause leaf drop. Have you had either of these situations in your area? Have you had hot dry winds?
Pests and fungal diseases can also be causes, but your description does not seem to fit those types of problems.
Hope this helps! Thank you for writing. Please give me an update on your
tree situation. I would like to know if it is recovering, and what you did
for your tree to help it. I care about your grapefruit tree, too! I'm sure
it will bounce back. It may take a little time though.
Sherry, I am interested in the care of blueberry plants. Any suggestions for us Northwestern folk? (Oregon) I currently have 3 varieties 1.) Blue Crop 2.) Berkeley 3.) Earli-Blue. They are all 2 ft. high and I need suggestions regarding how to help them through the winter. Is a spring spraying required? Or do you have some secrets you can share with me....Thanks for your input.... Jerry H.
Blueberries are generally easy to grow in home gardens, particularly in the Nortthwest, as blueberries like acidic soil (pH 4.5 to 5.5). Each autumn, rake away old mulch and apply 5 or 6 inches of fresh mulch such as pine needles or oak leaves (or mix peat moss with leaves) around each plant to maintain soil acidity and conserve moisture.
The varieties of highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum) that you have are all considered moderately hardy. There are many farms in the northwest growing blueberries commercially, so the plants should do well for you, too. During the growing season, they need plenty of water. After the plants leaf out in spring, apply 1/2 to 1 lb balanced (5-5-5) organic fertilizer to each plant. Water thoroughly after applying fertilizer.
They need no particular winter care, but that is a good time to prune. (You may also prune in late fall and early spring, as long as the plant is dormant.) Pruning is simple. Cut away any damaged wood, weak twiggy growth, and generally keep the branch structure open so as to let in light and air. As the plants age, be sure to eliminate the older, less productive branches to encourage the growth of new wood.
To repel rabbits over the winter (which might eat the blueberry bark), sprinkle bloodmeal around each plant. You shouldn't have any problems with diseases or pests. Keeping the bushes picked clean will prevent problems. Don't let fruit dry up and stay on the bush. Definitely pick all fruit off of bush in autumn--don't leave it on over winter. Don't leave prunings lying on the ground beneath the bush--dispose of them.
Some people have trouble with birds eating their fruits, but I don't.
That may be because I have a feeder nearby for the birds. Another thing:
Keep blueberry area weed-free but don't dig near the plants. They have very
shallow roots.
I'm looking for a Kaffir Lime tree (Citrus hystrix). Know where I might find one?
Thanks, Bill B.
The fruit and leaves of Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix) are used in Thai and Indonesian cooking.
Trees are available mailorder from Four Winds Growers, PO Box 3538, Fremont, CA 94539, Fax 510-656-1360. They also have a website (through which you may order) at the following address:
http://www.mother.com/fourwinds/index.htm
"I tried transplanting a six foot tall fuji apple which was three years old, with all branches and fruit on the tree. It went into shock and almost all the small branches died and part of the bark of the trunk died, about 1/4 of the circumference, from the base to the first branch.
This was three years ago and the tree has survived so far and is growing healthy branches again. So, it is six years old, a little lopsided in its branch development but I am pruning to correct this. I have pruned off all dead wood on top but the inner wood of the trunk is still exposed and has little tiny holes in it like insects have attacked it. The living part of the trunk is healing over but most likely will never sufficiently cover the exposed wood of the trunk. It even grew a couple of fruit. It is about five feet tall now.
Question, will it survive and provide good fruit or will it eventually die? Should I just replace it before too much more time goes by even though it has survived so far. Could I cover the exposed wood with prune sealer even though it is a long strip of the trunk?"
On to the subject of your Fuji apple tree. If it were my tree, I would be seriously considering "death with dignity." Your poor tree is obviously struggling. Three years later, it's still not completely healed, possibly suffering an insect attack, barely producing fruit, and not even as tall as it was before you transplanted it. That is sad.
I think you would be ahead to replace the tree with a healthy one. Certainly you've invested some time in the other tree, and I understand any reluctance to get rid of it, but the tree should be healthy by now and it isn't.
Tell the old tree that you're truly sorry for the shabby transplanting job that you did, then replace it with a new tree. Put the new tree in a place where it can stay.
I'm sure by now that you realize that it's best not to transplant a tree,
but if you must, be sure to cut back the top to balance the root loss that
takes place when you dig it. Dig as large a root ball as you can. Handle
the root ball carefully so as not to damage the remaining roots. Soak the
roots thoroughly with seafood extract diluted in water (one brand name is
Maxi-Crop) just before you replant. Trees are best transplanted in the fall
after they become dormant.
"I live in the Dallas, TX area and have several plumerias and banana plants in my landscape. The Plumerias I've had for years and I'm aware that they will need to be stored either in pots or bare rooted in a protected area (garage) when outside temperatures beginning to go below 40 degrees F.
Could you please tell me what special care the banana plants will need? I would be most appreciative.
Sincerely, Paul L."
Bananas prefer temperatures above 50 degrees fahrenheit. If you cannot
move them to a warmer place during cold weather, the best you can do is
insulate them by wrapping them in burlap over straw. If they're too big
for that, you'll just have to hope for the best, I suppose.
MEYER LEMON CARE
"Hi Sherry,
I appreciate an opportunity like this to ask some questions and hopefully
get a response from an expert. We purchased a potted meyer lemon in Pensacola
about February 1991. We live near Washington ,DC, in Dale City, Va. The
lemon did well for a few years but not now. The last time it set fruit they
all dropped before getting to about an inch in diameter.
We keep it outside in the summer and in an east-facing sliding glass door in winter. Last winter it did have small spiders. It set new foliage this summer but now about 10% of the leaves are yellowing. It has had blossoms for the last two months but no fruit is setting. We will move it indoors tomorrow. Do you have any suggestions? Fertilizer, insect control, watering, PH, etc.? The soil has a bit of moss on it. I have a large Avocado that is doing great. Hope to hear from you Sincerely, Elery F."
When Meyer Lemon trees are happy, they are very happy, and when they're not...
Here are some possibilities for you.
1. FRUIT DROP could be due to insect infestation. Do you have whiteflies? Do you have "bumps" on the undersides of leaves that would be scale insects? Are any of the leaves sticky (due to honeydew secreted by insects)? If so, use ultra-fine agricultural oil (smothers the little creatures). Available from Charley's Greenhouse Supply, 1-800-322-4707. You mentioned "spiders"--real spiders or spider mites? Fruit drop could also be caused by a sudden change in tree location, temperature, light.
2. YELLOWING LEAVES could mean lack of fertilizer (citrus are heavyfeeders), inconsistent watering (keep moist and don't let it dry out completely and use less water in winter when cool), or too much water which causes root rot. You say there is some MOSS on the soil. Might be time for some fresh, good-draining soil mix with lots of humus. Soil may be compacted and the roots may not be getting enough air. The lemon should be in a pot at least 18" in diameter.
3. BLOSSOMS BUT NO FRUIT mean that pollination is not taking place.
If there are no bees around, you must pollinate your lemon by hand.
(I just rub my finger over each flower whenever I think of it.)
"Two of the three dwarf papayas I started are blooming now, dozens of blooms. It's too early to tell if any are going to set fruit...
Love, Dad"