What is over wintering seeds? What seeds can be overwintered?
Some seeds require a cold period before they will germinate. Chilling seeds to promote germination is called stratification. Of course, this can be done in the refrigerator, or it can be done outdoors over the winter.
The seeds of many species of trees benefit from the effects of a cold winter.
Fragaria reugens (Alpine strawberry) Some other hardy perennials that can be sown in late summer and wintered over as seedlings:
Baptisia, Campanula, Centaurea, Chrysanthemum, Dianthus, Digitalis, Doronicum, Gypsophila, Linum, Lupinus, Omphalodes, Platycodon, Potentilla, Primula, Salvia, Scabiosa, Tiarella, Viola.
Some annuals that can be sown in autumn and overwintered in a cold frame:
Eschscholzia californica (California Poppy)
Iberis (Candytuft)
Clarkia
Godetia
Reseda odorata (Mignonette)
Viola (Pansies)
Matthiola (Stock)
Lathyrus (Sweet pea)
GLADIOLUS FROM SEED
Dear Sherry, I am 16 and just started to like to grow plants. I love to
propagate plants but I am still experimenting on some of them as far as
cuttings and seed reproduction. Since I just started, I am experimenting
with a plant that I am familiar with--Gladiolus. After the flowers on the
gladiolus were fertilized and the flowers fell off and the seed pods formed,
I took one off and opened it, to of course find the seeds in them. The seeds
are very small--even after the seeds were fully formed. The ones I bought
at the store were much bigger (more like bulb size). My question may sound
kind of dumb, but what size is a gladiolus seed and how do I grow them (from
the seeds)?? If you have time, please write me. Thank you for your time
to read my letter. I read at the top of your webpage that you like to experiment
with plants and I thought you might could help me. Thank you -- Gregory
You probably planted gladiolus corms initially, and yes, they are much larger and look quite a bit different from the seeds. I hope you allowed the seed pods to mature before you removed them from the plants. They need to be "ripe" to successfully germinate. Gladiolus will produce a lot of seeds if you allow it. That's ok, but remember that when the plant puts energy toward producing seed, that means that much less energy goes to the corm underground, which is what produces next year's flower.
Ok, so now you have seed. Normally, seed would be sown in late winter or early spring (February to April) and given heat (about 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and consistent moisture until it germinates (in about 20 to 40 days).
So, you see it is late in the year for starting gladiolus from seed. If you must try to grow some now, go ahead. That's what experimenting is all about--ignoring rules. (Sometimes fresh seeds sprout more readily.) You could also save some to plant next February or so.
You will get lots of surprises from your seed. Gladiolus seed will not come "true", that is, the resulting flowers will not necessarily look anything like the parent plant. The young plants can be set out in spring a couple of weeks after the last frost, when the soil is warming. They like sun and rich, well-drained soil. (You probably already know that.)
From seed, the plants should bloom in 2 or 3 years. If they try
to bloom early, or seem small to be blooming, cut off the flower stalk before
it develops much so that all energy will be directed toward strengthening
the corm.
Hi, I'd like to know how to grow plants from seeds with a hard covering such as date and cherry stones. Do I just stick them in the ground or try and break their shells a little?
Thanks Selina B.
Growing dates from seed: Nick the date seed a little in one place with a file and plant it vertically in potting mixture. The top of the seed should be about 1/2 inch below the surface. Keep it warm (about 70 degrees Farenheit) until it germinates. This may take 3 months so be patient. Once you have a plant, keep it cool in winter (50 to 55 degrees Farenheit) and repot it every year.
Growing cherries from seed: I'm assuming that you will be growing
these outdoors. The collected seeds should not dry more than a few weeks
before you plant them. Sow in late summer, or in spring after stratification.
To break seed dormancy, first give them a 2 week period of warm stratification
(68 to 86 degrees Farenheit or 20 to 30 degrees C.). This should be followed
by 6 months of cold stratification at 34 to 40 degrees F. or 1 to 4 degrees
C. If you stratify the seeds in the refrigerator, sow as early as possible
in spring.
If you have a garden inside a greenhouse without insects, bees, etc., how much of a problem is this for pollination of vegtables and flowers?
YOU must be the "bee"! In a greenhouse, the gardener must pollinate the flowers of vegetables so that they will produce fruit.
Tomatoes (normally wind pollinated) may be pollinated by shaking or tapping the flower cluster. Tomato flowers are ready to pollinate when their petals curl back. They must then be pollinated within 3 days to produce fruit.
I rub the centers of my lemon tree flowers with my finger periodically. One may also pollinate using a very small paint brush. Some plants have male and female flowers that are separate (squash and melon, for instance). Be sure to collect pollen from the male flower (the one with just a stem and no tiny fruit behind it) and use that on the female flower.
Those ALL FEMALE cucumbers bred for greenhouse growing do not need pollinating. If they are pollinated, the fruit will be bitter. Be sure to remove the occasional male flower that appears on these particular plants.
Ornamental flowers need to be pollinated if you want them to produce
seed. The best times for pollinating are morning and afternoon.
SOIL BLOCKERS & TREE "UMBRELLAS"
Hi, love your page. I'm still checking it out. I recently saw a garden show (gardening, naturally, on TLC) and they were demonstrating using potting blocks for starting seeds. They showed three different sizes of block makers. Now for the first question. Do you know what I'm talking about? Have you ever used these? Do you know where I can purchase them? I know you thought I'd stop at one or two.:) Just one more....hopefully.
I have a jasmine that is taking over. I'm trying to train the thing as a tree. I would like to get one of those metal umbrella things for trailing trees. When I go to a nursury they give me a blank stare and then it dawns on them what I'm talking about. They all say they have ordered them in the past for their own plants but don't have any to sell....any ideas where I could get a couple? I also want to make a tree out of a sweet potato vine. Anyway I would love to hear any suggestions you might have. Thanks. Robin
The answer to your first question is yes, I know what you're talking about, and the answer to your second question is no, I haven't used them. They are generally called "soil blockers" or "soil cubers". With them you can make soil cubes for sowing seeds without using pots.
Two sources for these are: 1. Territorial Seed Company PO Box 157 Cottage Grove, OR 97424 phone 541-942-9547, FAX 541-942-9881 2. A.M. Leonard, Inc "Sensible Tools for the Serious Gardener" PO Box 816 Piqua, OH 45356-0816 phone 1-800-543-8955, FAX 1-800-433-0633 (These two catalogs are well worth having whether or not you want soil blockers!)
Since I've never used them, I shouldn't criticize, but here I go: It seems to me that it is NOT a good idea to compress soil that is to be used for planting. Plant roots need air as much as they need water. I would think that the act of forming a block of soil that would hold together enough for planting would automatically exclude a lot of important air space. I am always striving to make any soil I use (in the greenhouse or outside) FLUFFIER, not more compact. If you try these, please do me the favor of emailing me a review, ok? [This applies to everyone. Please let me know what YOUR experience has been with soil blockers and the use of the resulting blocks.]
Metal tree "umbrella" supports? You have now exceeded the
two question limit (siren blast). Never mind, I just don't know where
to find those things (have looked in my multitudes of catalogs and magazines).
I know I've seen them in use in the past. I will keep an eye open for those
and try to let you know if I find one. [Does anyone out there know where
to get these? Please email me if you do.]
Hi Sherry, This is our first contact with you. I hope you can help us. We have a marvelous Kousa Dogwood on our property that we are trying to propagate. Books state that propagation is by seeds sown when ripe in a cold frame.
The question is "Are the seeds ripe when they are large and green or large and red"? Examination of the seed cases reveal a seed like substance inside the large green case and virtually nothing but pulp in the red cases. So what exactly does the seed per se look like. Is it the whole case or just a component of what is inside. Numerous trips to the library have not produced the necessary information. Local greenhouses don't seem to want to take an interest in helping the average homeowner. The Kousa is supposed to be one of the more hardier and disease resistant of the dogwoods and happens to be a gorgeous tree.
Last year's attempt to propagate failed miserably. The seeds are at what we think is the critical point of needing to do something with them. We need help soon. We don't want to fail again. The tree has approximately 200 seed cases left.
One more question: The Kousa has several shoots eminating from the trunk at ground level. I am debating whether or not to split off the shoots and put them in a planter and seal the trunk with tree sealer. Do you think these shoots will take? And should I do it now in the fall or wait till spring?I know you must be very busy from the amount of mail I see on your web site. We would appreciate an answer soon. We don't think there is much time left for the seeds.
Thanx for your time...... Ken and Sharon. :)
First, the SEED question:
Dogwood (Cornus) seeds are among the most difficult to start because they have both hard seed coats and dormant embryos. Cornus kousa (Kousa dogwood) seeds are even MORE difficult than dogwoods in general, and they have smaller seeds. Don't let any of this discourage you. Go right ahead and give it a try.
Remove the seeds as soon as the fruit turns red. There may be only one or two very small seeds per fruit (sheltered within some sort of "stone.") Plant immediately in autumn. (If you have seeds that you've already dried, soak them first in warm water for a day.) Mulch the planted seeds with 1/2 to one inch of something fine-textured for the winter. If the tree has not been cross-pollinated by another tree, the seed containers may be empty.
The seeds may take a long time to germinate in the ground--perhaps not even until the second spring. There are several things that you can do to hurry things along. Try stratification--in the case of dogwood seeds, keep them warm for 2 months (70 degrees Farenheit or so), then 3 to 4 months of cold stratification (in the refrigerator in a sealed container). Also nick the seeds or rub a little against sandpaper. Remember to soak the seeds at least 24 hours before planting.
Be sure to keep the young plants well watered.
Second, the SUCKER question:
The first thing to check is whether any part of these shoots or suckers is touching the ground. If so, they may have a few roots already. If not, you must layer them so that they will make some roots. Either way, you do this in early winter.
For suckers WITH ROOTS, dig around them (carefully) with a fork and cut them away from the mother tree with as many roots as possible. Pot up in a container just large enough to hold the roots without cramping using standard potting mix. Water thoroughly and place in a sheltered area until the sucker develops enough roots to be planted out into the ground. If you live in an area that gets freezing temperatures in winter, protect the container/roots from cold by piling soil up around it.
For suckers WITHOUT ROOTS, you must LAYER them so that they will develop roots. This involves bending the shoot down to the ground and pinning it there (perhaps with a U-shaped piece of wire) then bending the tip up and tying it to a stake so that it is held upright. Slice off a sliver of bark from the part of the shoot that is touching the ground. The soil in that area should be loosened and amended with something gritty (sand or perlite) to promote root growth. Mound soil up around the area that is pinned to the ground. Keep moistened, especially during a dry summer.
Pull gently on it next autumn to see if roots have developed. If it resists tugging (roots have formed), cut the stem that joins it to its parent, but do not otherwise disturb it. (If it has no roots yet, be sure to mound the soil back up around the pinnned down part. Check again in a few months.) Early in the following spring, dig it up and plant in the garden.
Dogwood may also be propagated using hardwood cuttings taken in mid-autumn.